The trufi slowed to a crawl and the driver hunched forward, peering intently over the steering wheel as if at an eye test, before we suddenly emerged into the sunshine. Outside my window was a near-vertical 1,000m drop, while on the opposite side a motorbike whizzed past, clipping our wing mirror. Just ahead, a trio of cyclists gingerly navigated a crater-sized pothole: although a bypass has been built around the most perilous stretch, the road's macabre reputation has made it something of a tourist attraction and it attracts a steady stream of travellers eager to ride down it.

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